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I've found ace hardware has a good assortment of mm hardware.

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Minleon sells the Lynx Express controller. Also get with Sean (smeighan) of Xlights, He has some Lynx Express controllers he would part with I think. 
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If you have unicast controllers enabled in FPP that aren't actually on this will happen.
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Sometimes it is just simpler to bite the bullet and migrate everything over.  I moved from AC to RGB over 3 seasons.  I still have some AC props, but generally don't use them or just use one controller (a Lynx Express) that can be attached to a DMX port of an RGB controller.  One of the reasons I moved faster than I had planned was that I did not like the missmatched colors in the display between my old AC stuff and the new RGB units.  ymmv
I agree with this approach. I was 1/2 lor controllers 1/2 falcon last year and it looked mismatched so I decided to sell all of my lor gear and go with just rgb this year. 


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Sometimes it is just simpler to bite the bullet and migrate everything over.  I moved from AC to RGB over 3 seasons.  I still have some AC props, but generally don't use them or just use one controller (a Lynx Express) that can be attached to a DMX port of an RGB controller.  One of the reasons I moved faster than I had planned was that I did not like the missmatched colors in the display between my old AC stuff and the new RGB units.  ymmv
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I have been trolling the forum that last several nights looking for my answer, but I couldn't find it.  It's pretty simple so I thought I would ask.  I have about (16) LOR CTB16PC controllers left in the show.  I have been slowly eliminating them each year and adding more RGB as replacements (1000 times better). As some of them are getting older and will need to be replaced soon and since I am using them in DMX via Xlights/Pi with a FPP, I do not want to go that route.  What is out there that I can replace a LOR CTB16PC controller to something direct to DMX with the 110V plug on it so i can keep my current LOR CTB16PC AC elements in the show.  $200 a controller seems like a lot now just to keep 16 channel an AC controller.  Thanks in Advance.  I'm sure someone has done this already!
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BeagleBone Black Controllers / Re: F8B+
« Last post by dkulp on Today at 09:34:19 AM »
Can you try stopping fppd via "fpp -q" instead of using the button in the UI or the fppd_stop script?  "fppd -q" should do a graceful shutdown allowing the Channel Output Close() methods to run which should shutdown LEDScape which should stop the code running on the PRU.  The -q option to fpp was something I added, but didn't get around to updating the stop script to try a graceful shutdown before killing the fppd process.


It's pretty close, but there were a few other issues.  Shutting down the BBB48String completely shuts down the prusdrv and unmaps the memory so by the time we get to shutdown the BBBSerial, that fails.   Also, the LEDScape code only looks for events from PRU0 so it never knows when the pru1 code is complete.    I just committed some changes to my branch that fixes a bunch of this.   Some of it probably isn't ideal as I added some sleeps in various places to hopefully allow fppd to have enough time to cleanly shutdown.   
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BeagleBone Black Controllers / Re: F8B+
« Last post by CaptainMurdoch on Today at 08:49:54 AM »
The bad news is changing from DMX/PixelNet to pixels requires a complete reboot right now, not just a restart of FPP.   It seems like the FPP restart doesn't call any routines to shutdown outputs so the DMX PRU code continues to run on the second PRU and interferes with the pixel code on the first PRU.  I need to figure that out.   I think at fpp startup, even if DMX isn't configured, I need to clear the data and send the "stop" command to the second PRU just in case it's running.   Not really sure yet.  Something I'm looking into.

Can you try stopping fppd via "fpp -q" instead of using the button in the UI or the fppd_stop script?  "fppd -q" should do a graceful shutdown allowing the Channel Output Close() methods to run which should shutdown LEDScape which should stop the code running on the PRU.  The -q option to fpp was something I added, but didn't get around to updating the stop script to try a graceful shutdown before killing the fppd process.
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1/4" is really thick and most use 1/8" thick. Assuming 1/8" ABS. Power supplies are M4 screw size and you will need 8mm long.  To attach abs to case it is #6 1/2" long sheet metal screws. If you stick with 1/4" then adjust your length accordingly. If you mount the PS flat be careful you don't go too deep or you will hit the internal board.


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Thanks. I'll have to check to see what we have lying about the shop, but we probably have 1/8" too. Guess it's time to hit up Lowe's this weekend for the hardware.
Lowes and Home Depot around me have very few M4 screws so I either support the local small hardware store or order them online.  But others have found them at big box stores, good luck.


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F16v2 Pixel Controller / Re: what voltage pixels to use
« Last post by gadgetsmith on Today at 04:58:12 AM »
Here are some rules of thumb. Pixels can vary vendor to vendor in their abilities, so always run some tests to verify.

5v pixels need power injection every 50pixels.  Due to voltage drop, I wouldn't use them for long runs (anything over 10ft from the controller or power source)

12v pixels only need power injection every 100 pixels, and are more tolerant to voltage drop so are recommended when making longer runs to pixels.

Pixel strips are another thing.  12v pixel strips are controlled in groups of three when using ws2811 chips.  5v pixels are typically ws2812 type, which is a 5050 LED with an embedded ws2811 control chip.  Same things govern length in terms of voltage, 5v strips need power injection more frequently, and can't be located that far from a power source.

For me, i use 5v pixels for my mega tree. I had to spend time with power injection as my string lengths are 150 long.  I have props up to 60ft away, and those all use 12v pixel nodes.  Arches are 12v pixel strips, the 60/30 variety, and are 59 pixels long (177 LEDs).  House roof outline are 5v GECE types, and have runs up to 75 ft long. I use a 12v power supply at the controller, and have 12v to 5v buck converters at the start of each string to supply 5v right at that point. This is how to get around using 5v pixels at a distance.
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