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BETA testers for the µSC...

Started by corey872, March 24, 2014, 11:54:09 AM

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0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jnealand

Got the board soldered up and fitted with a 3 pin connector on the output side and a 4 pin waterproof connector on the side.  I get a lot of lights flashing on the uSC but no lights on.  The lights work with an SSC V3 so I must have something crossed over.  This is the first time I tried to use a coax to 4 pin connector.  Just got called for dinner so will have to come back to the shop later this evening.
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA all Falcon controllers, all 12v Master Remote Multisync with Pi and BBB P10 and P5

twooly

Perfect thank you I'll get it soldered up here in a few

corey872

Quote from: jnealand on April 14, 2014, 05:33:41 PM
Got the board soldered up and fitted with a 3 pin connector on the output side and a 4 pin waterproof connector on the side.  I get a lot of lights flashing on the uSC but no lights on.  The lights work with an SSC V3 so I must have something crossed over.  This is the first time I tried to use a coax to 4 pin connector.  Just got called for dinner so will have to come back to the shop later this evening.

I've posted a bit of a revised silkscreen image.  I will repost below.    A couple of points to check.  If your data input LED (DIN) is mainly on with short 'off' blips, that indicates data polarity is correct.  If it happens to be mainly off with short 'on' blips, then the two data wires could be reversed.  The "O" on the board is for orange wire and "WO" is white with orange tracer.  Power, obviously should be on and the PIC signal (SIG) and data output (DOUT) should flash mostly in unison.

One thing to check would be to use a magnet, or jumper hole 1 to hole 6 and cycle power.  That should evoke test mode (even with no input data) and you should see an RGB color fade at the nodes.  You can use either a solid wire for the jumper or a resistor up to several Kohms.  During test, if you see the power led and DOUT LED is on and blinking rapidly, but don't see the nodes fade, then something is amiss on the output side.  Might double check the wires are hooked up correctly and take special note while the + input / output are straight across, the - in/out and data do a bit of a swap from side to side.





Corey

twooly

Hmm I'm seeing the same thing, no activity on nodes.  Wires look good to me. 

Output side I have a 3 core waterproof pigtail using my usual color scheme I've used on all my other SSCs
Input I'm using CAT5 with the Orange going to the board marked O and White/Orange going to WO.  White-Blue/Blue/White-Green going to positive on the board and White-Brown/Brown/Green going to negative on the board.

I'm using a DLA hub to power/data.

I get a constant led on for power.  Sig does flashing at power on and goes off.  Dout is constant on and Din is off and gets short ons when I send data.  Need to go find a magnet to try the test mode.

jnealand

Still no luck.  I've gone back over all my wire connections and looked at the board using my Optivisor, but cannot see anything.  When I hook up to an active hub I get the initial lights flash and the power LED is on.  When I try to run an xlights RGB cycle all the LEDs come on except the Dout.  If I disconnect the uSC and connect that cable to an SSC the lights cycle as expected.  Attached are pictures of the top and bottom of the board and a crude wiring diagram that I used for my cable connections.

One note - When I got the board one of the thru holes for the signal LED was filled with solder.  I used soldering braid to clean it out.

[attachment deleted by admin]
Jim Nealand
Kennesaw, GA all Falcon controllers, all 12v Master Remote Multisync with Pi and BBB P10 and P5

corey872

Twooly - All the wiring sounds correct.  The only time DOUT should be on without DIN also being on would be in test mode.  This is when the PIC sends it own stored data to the nodes.  Otherwise, the board needs data coming in to send data out. 

Also, the DOUT / DIN LEDs shouldn't be 'solid on' - there should generally be some flicker indicating data frames.  At 25FPS (standard frame rate), it's pretty noticeable.  Though with the PIC in test mode (77FPS) it's much less noticeable.   Also, everyone's "persistence of vision" is a bit different, so what one person sees as flickering may appear steady-on to another.  (I've come to believe my persistence is relatively short as I've known some people work all day at their computer screens, but the flicker would drive me crazy in 2 minutes of giving 'technical assistance')

I guess I should also clarify, while I did flash the PICs for all beta boards, you will need to program channels using the configuration utility if you want to send data from a sequencing program.  Call this an SSCV4 for sake of programming.
Corey

corey872

jnealand - Your wiring seems to be correct.  I think between you and me we use the exact opposite colors for everything (I just kind of made mine up!)  But I stepped through it and all seems correct.

I will throw out the same note from earlier.  I guess I should also clarify, while I did flash the PICs for all beta boards, you will need to program channels using the configuration utility if you want to send data from a sequencing program.  Call this an SSCV4 for sake of programming.

Though you should get test mode to work even without channel programming.  So apply a magnet and cycle power, or jumper hole 1 to hole 6 and cycle power - this should go into test mode and make RGB ramps on the nodes.

PS - sorry about the solder plugged hole.  I accidentally zapped it while soldering up the boards.  I sat it aside for 'rework' and about the time I dropped the envelopes in the mail, I said 'oops! - forgot something'  Hope it didn't cause too much trouble.
Corey

arw01

Same thing for me.  Soldered it up, get the power on blinks fine, put it on a ws2811 strip, data light shows I'm getting signal, nothing on the led strip itself.

Putting a magnet on the reed switch has no effect, power cycled it, moved to a full 16 port active hub from a passive hub, nothing. Not light output.

I'm suspecting a firmware issue or a programming the pic issue.  I visually inspected the board and see not issues with it. I'm a little soft on a couple of these cell phone photos as it was getting dark and I didn't get out the Nikon with the tripod and three flashes   :o





twooly

Can we try to reflash the pic?  I'm not sure what else it could be to be honest.  I acts like its doing something but nothing.  The SIG/DIN do flash when sending data from xlights, just not sure why my DOUT is steady on all the time.

corey872

Can try a reprogram, though probably best to leave that as a last option.   Lets troubleshoot a bit more in the current state.  At this point, figuring out why it's not working is as important as making it work.  So a couple of questions:

You say the DOUT LED is 'always on' but in the photo you attached, it's off?  was this a special case?  did the camera catch it between a blink, so the LED is actually blinking?

You said the magnet has 'no effect' but not sure exactly what that is referring to... the string? the LED(s) on the controller, etc?


Try this:

Shut off all data to the hub, make sure all sequencing is off - we just want power at the hub.  Unplug any nodes / anything on the output side of the string controller.  Plug the controller into the powered hub and report what happens.
Corey

twooly

Thats arw01's pics.

Yes my DOUT is on steady. 

No pixelnet into the hub and no nodes hooked up.  Connect power and the Sig led does some flashes and turns off.  Power is steady on and so is DOUT.

corey872

lol - sorry, too early in the morning!

SIG LED flashing at power on should confirm the PIC program, but DOUT solid on could mean the PIC not pulling the line low.  If you wish to try a re-flash, the best firmware would he the "SSCV4 Beta 0.0.5" located here  http://falconchristmas.com/forum/index.php?action=downloads;cat=11.  Reflashing should be just like any SSC.  I used the male pin adapter which came with the PICKit, insert the pins through the holes in the µSC and apply a slight twisting pressure.







Corey

twooly

Ha ha no worries, I'm an early bird  :)

Ill give it a try and report back

twooly

Guess I should have asked, hard to read whats the PIC model?

corey872

Corey

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