Falcon Christmas

Creations => Showing Off => Topic started by: Xmas! on January 11, 2019, 03:25:24 PM

Title: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 11, 2019, 03:25:24 PM
Hello all. Just keeping a log of how my build is going. Feedback is welcome.


The first pic shows the basic layout. I went a different route than most by turning the box on its side. This way it gives me much more room to allow every cable to go through its own gland. And hopefully this will also make is easier to get to those pesky fuses.


Second pic is how I attached the boards. Instead of using your typical nylon screws, I just used zipties with nylon spacers under each hole.


Third pic is of the from where the cross marks designate the gland holes to be drilled.


Lastly, the 3M Dual Lock velcro is the best you will ever use!


Like I said, feedback is welcome since I'm so early in the build I can change almost anything.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Todd on January 11, 2019, 04:37:57 PM
To save you drilling time in the future you could use larger glans. I use two large ones to run the pigtails out. works fine and a lot less holes to drill.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 11, 2019, 05:38:40 PM
I know but I was trying to see if this way makes it easier to get to the fuses on the F16.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: jnealand on January 11, 2019, 07:21:49 PM
Based on my experience it will not make it easier to get to the fuses since the cables will totally obsure the fuses and even the connector numbers when you are trying to fix stuff.  I think I am going to stick with my marine battery boxes as they are much easier to get into and out of, but then I only have an F16 and a Pi in there and no distros or expansion boards.  I bought an ammo box and have lots of glands available, but based on my ease of use experience I'm not sure I am going to use it.  Even putting it away for storage means all those pigtails are hanging out of the box and interfere with stacking things nice and neat on my shelfs.  YMMV.  I'll be reading future posts here.  Maybe I'll change my mind yet again.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Todd on January 11, 2019, 08:52:35 PM
I know but I was trying to see if this way makes it easier to get to the fuses on the F16.


It sucks having to get at the fuses. I had to unplug 1/2 the cables to get to them. I labeled all the pigtails inside the enclosure just for this issue. It makes it much easier plugging them back in if you ever need to unplug them.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: K-State Fan on January 12, 2019, 06:16:50 AM
How often do you have to change fuses?  I think this was my fifth year with pixels and the only time i remember blowing a fuse was on the bench testing.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Todd on January 12, 2019, 07:25:32 AM
How often do you have to change fuses?  I think this was my fifth year with pixels and the only time i remember blowing a fuse was on the bench testing.
g


I've only had to do it once.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: jnealand on January 12, 2019, 07:48:09 AM
It is not just pixels, but I also had a couple of wires coming loose at the connector.  You can't see those little loose wire connections until you get right down on top of them and when they are all covered up, it can be done, but it is a pain.  I also labeled all my pigtails both inside and outside the box.  Those labels help a lot when setting up and you are in a hurry or are trying to troubleshoot a string that is acting up.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 12, 2019, 09:59:36 AM
Jim how do you keep the wires from coming loose on the plugs? I was thinking about just tinning them but I may use a ferrule lug instead. What are your thoughts?
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: algerdes on January 12, 2019, 10:44:20 AM
Xmas, tinning them sets you up for loose connections.  Some that have done it find that they tighten down the screws, but as time goes by the tinning itself migrates under the pressure - leaving the lines loose in the elevator.  (Around here the device that lifts and squeezes the wire against the top plate is known as an "elevator".)


The ferrule lug is a really good solution.  Convert that multi-strand line into a single wire. If it just didn't take so long to do all those crimps.  :(


In all the years I've been doing this I've done neither.  From time to time, especially when "strange things" start to happen, I check all the connectors to make sure they are seated correctly, and check all the screws for tightness.  Of course when doing this, I realize the amount of time to put on lugs may have been less.  Who knows!?!
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Todd on January 12, 2019, 12:37:44 PM
Jim how do you keep the wires from coming loose on the plugs? I was thinking about just tinning them but I may use a ferrule lug instead. What are your thoughts?
Do Not tin the ends. Make sure you have a good quality screw driver small enough to fit in the screws in the plug. I found you get the connections good and tight with the proper screw driver.
I'm in algerdes camp...No Tin, No ferrules, Just the stranded wire stripped, twisted and tightened down.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: jnealand on January 12, 2019, 01:04:01 PM
Sad to say, but I have been tinning ends of stranded wires for years.  Do they get smashed down - yes.  Do they come loose at times - yes.   Does a stray wire got stuck outside the connector - no.  I hear all those folks talk about you must have fuses everywhere, calculate your power, not tin your wires, etc, etc.  Those are not my things.  I know to re-tighten connectors every season and I never put a huge load on anything power or data and I keep a fair number of spare available ports on every controller.  Maybe its me, maybe its luck but things just work fine.  This is a low voltage DC hobby with a lot of stuff to think about.  There are some things that I do not spend a lot of time worrying about.  YMMV

My friend, Al Gerdes, on the other hand runs his show in a public park and must be concerned about a lot of things that do not worry my small home yard display where I am around every day.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 12, 2019, 02:36:23 PM
A little more progress on the build. I ran my power wires under the backer. I also went with solid core wires for power.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: jnealand on January 12, 2019, 06:22:11 PM
Where are those power supplies from.  I do not recall ever seeing a PS with a big label like that on it.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: bigwavedave on January 12, 2019, 06:31:43 PM
Where are those power supplies from.  I do not recall ever seeing a PS with a big label like that on it.


It looks like they are from Holiday Coro : http://www.holidaycoro.com/12-Volt-350-Watt-Power-Supply-p/49.htm


You'll notice the "#49" on the sticker, which is a way HC tends to label models/parts.  And sure enough the link is to "#49"!


That's my best guess...  OP can verify.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 12, 2019, 09:17:35 PM
Yes they are HC PSUs.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 13, 2019, 04:18:46 PM
Buck converter, Pi, and inlet power switch installed. The power wire is just temporary for testing.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 14, 2019, 04:07:38 PM
So I already made a change to the design. Will post pics once I have it in the same condition as my last pics.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 15, 2019, 05:50:01 PM
Here is the update:
Also tested 2 strands of Ray Wu lights and they work great!!
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 16, 2019, 08:23:00 AM
So I am too late in asking this question but I may as well try to find out. How did everyone go about drilling the 3.5" hole for the vents in the BUD enclosure? I went to HD and asked if a holesaw would work for 1/4" thick plastic and the guy told me yes. It may be that I wasn't able to put a block of wood behind it when I was drilling but the holesaw gouged my enclosure pretty bad on the first hole. Thats why I have the foam gasket on the inside. The second hole I used my dremel but it was still pretty jagged. Any help would be greatly appreciated for the next enclosure. Thanks.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: jnealand on January 16, 2019, 10:45:56 AM
I did not have a holesaw that big, but I have a drill bit with an adjustable bar with a cutter bit at the end.  The secret to using all these things is to go very slow and use a drill press if possible.  If you are going thru and not perfectly vertical you will do some damage doing it by hand.  At least that has been my experience.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 16, 2019, 12:27:38 PM
Well I just found out my work has a drill press so I am going to give that a try when I get my new enclosure in.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: thaistalyn on January 16, 2019, 05:13:41 PM
When drilling plastic - Clamp IT, Tape IT, Drill IT (slowly):

NOTE* - If your cutting a hole bigger than 1" in plastic I normally step up cutting bits.  Meaning I'll drill the 1" first then the 2" then the 3", if I'm making a 3" hole.  Safest way to drill plastic without cracking it.  I've seen holes up to 2" /3" cut without "stepping" but I think it is just risky.  I'm one of those that like to "do it right the first time".
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: k6ccc on January 16, 2019, 05:32:36 PM
Nice work so far.  Always makes it easier to be able to keep it neat.
Do you have a link to the vent covers that you are using?
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 16, 2019, 05:34:49 PM
Thanks for the step by step Robert. Must be a small world. Iím a retired ETC/SS.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 16, 2019, 05:36:52 PM
Check this link. It has a lot of the parts I used.
https://falconchristmas.com/forum/index.php/topic,7773.15.html
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Todd on January 16, 2019, 06:20:53 PM
So I am too late in asking this question but I may as well try to find out. How did everyone go about drilling the 3.5" hole for the vents in the BUD enclosure? I went to HD and asked if a holesaw would work for 1/4" thick plastic and the guy told me yes. It may be that I wasn't able to put a block of wood behind it when I was drilling but the holesaw gouged my enclosure pretty bad on the first hole. Thats why I have the foam gasket on the inside. The second hole I used my dremel but it was still pretty jagged. Any help would be greatly appreciated for the next enclosure. Thanks.
I use hole saws to drill all my holes. I push it through quickly otherwise the spinning starts to melt the plastic and the saw starts to drift. Mark it and drill it quickly, never had an issue.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 17, 2019, 06:29:26 PM
Wiring is almost complete. Ran out of blue lugs so I called it a night.

Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 18, 2019, 06:38:52 PM
So I scrapped the solid 14awg wire and went with ultra flex 400 strand tinned wire. It was too much of a pain to work with. Redid everything including the enclosure. Much cleaner cuts for the vents and power switch.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 19, 2019, 09:19:45 AM
Updated pics.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 19, 2019, 04:28:29 PM
99% complete. Just waiting on 2-core pigtails from Ray to arrive.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Todd on January 19, 2019, 06:18:11 PM
99% complete. Just waiting on 2-core pigtails from Ray to arrive.
Looks good. Fed Ex is telling me my Ray Wu stuff is going to be here Monday.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 19, 2019, 07:19:33 PM
Thanks Todd. BTW everyone, splitting your pigtails out DEFINITELY helps you get to the fuses.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: K-State Fan on January 20, 2019, 08:13:17 AM
99% complete. Just waiting on 2-core pigtails from Ray to arrive.


Looks good. Glad you got everything working.



Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: TexasStingray on January 20, 2019, 08:30:26 AM
I think it looks pretty good. You have 14 output connectors in the middle of the case does the F16 not have 16? Sorry looking at old case
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 20, 2019, 08:53:31 AM
Thanks but I am still having issues connecting the F16 to my Pi via WiFi or Ethernet cable. Only way it connects is through direct cable to my router. Other than that itís great.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 22, 2019, 03:34:04 PM
Ok here is the final finished product. Thanks to everyone who helped me get to this point. Now I just need a ton of pixels to light up!!
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: algerdes on January 23, 2019, 06:50:34 AM
Just out of curiosity, it appears from the photos that you are using the male tales as controller output, and the female tales as power output.  Is this correct?
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 23, 2019, 07:19:06 AM
Just out of curiosity, it appears from the photos that you are using the male tales as controller output, and the female tales as power output.  Is this correct?


No. I am using female pigtails on all of them. But the controller pigtails are from holidaycoro and the power pigtails are from Ray Wu. Thats why it appears that way.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 23, 2019, 08:05:30 AM
So I have come up with a new possible issue about this build. I am using 14awg stranded wire for everything inside the box. Should I scrap that and go with 10awg? I will be running around 3400 pixels with power injection. Thanks. 12v strings btw.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: k6ccc on January 23, 2019, 08:58:49 AM
So I have come up with a new possible issue about this build. I am using 14awg stranded wire for everything inside the box. Should I scrap that and go with 10awg? I will be running around 3400 pixels with power injection. Thanks. 12v strings btw.
You are likely OK, however I can't tell exactly what you have wired to what.  You have 8 fused power lines, but I can only come up with 6 loads, so maybe I'm missing something.  You also have not mentioned if those pixels will be set for 100%, and what they draw at 100% white.  Based on the somewhat common 0.06 amps per pixel, your 3400 pixels comes out to 204 amps, so I have to assume you are not expecting to have the pixels run at 100% as you don't have any where near that much power supply capability.  With some overhead, you have about 70 amps of useful power supply.  Assuming that you reduce the pixels enough to keep total load with everything at full white and if you are actually evenly distributing the load between the 8 sets of wires (very unlikely), you would be within the rating for 14 AWG wire (sort of).  I say sort of because you have all the wires tightly bundled which de-rates them somewhat.  Either do the math and calculate what the actual loads will be on each wire, or better yet, power up the strings and measure them.  Because of the bundled wires, I would not plan on more than 10 amps per 14 AWG wire on a continuous bases (I have not looked up the de-rating numbers for your bundles - so that is a gut-feeling number).  Fortunately for our purposes, we seldom have all lights on at 100% for any substantial length of time so that changes the equation too.
So back to my original statement - you are likely OK.  Even if there really are only four sets (power and return) carrying all 3400 pixels and they are reasonably evenly distributed, and you have them set to about 30% in the Falcons, you are maxing about 18 amps per wire (which is over the ratings), but the worst case situation happens very seldom and not for long.  There are a lot of IFs in my statement however.
If I were building that box from scratch, I would likely use 10 or 12 AWG however.  For my 2018 pixel tree I have 800 pixels per power wire set, which is in the neighborhood of what you have (if evenly distributed).  I have each of those on a single 12 AWG, but fully know that it's not what was long term intended, but I was in a major time crunch and did that wiring at about 11 PM and  had to make due with what I had in stock.  It will get changed for 2019 - this weekend if I have time so I can get it done before putting it away for storage...
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 23, 2019, 09:10:10 AM
Thanks K6ccc. There are actually only 5 loads. I ran the wires for 8 because I wanted the extra 3 if needed. Those 3 are deadended at the fuse. The pixels will NOT be set to 100% while running. I have only used 100% for testing. I do plan on splitting the pixels out fairly evenly with PI as needed. I have 10awg wire and plenty of time before I need the controller so I am thinking its a good idea to redo the cabling. If this was crunch time like in your scenario I may leave it until after the season. As for the bundled wires, I understand the loss but I am a neat freak and want everything in its place if you know what I mean.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: k6ccc on January 23, 2019, 04:27:38 PM
Thanks K6ccc. There are actually only 5 loads. I ran the wires for 8 because I wanted the extra 3 if needed. Those 3 are deadended at the fuse. The pixels will NOT be set to 100% while running. I have only used 100% for testing. I do plan on splitting the pixels out fairly evenly with PI as needed. I have 10awg wire and plenty of time before I need the controller so I am thinking its a good idea to redo the cabling. If this was crunch time like in your scenario I may leave it until after the season. As for the bundled wires, I understand the loss but I am a neat freak and want everything in its place if you know what I mean.
I had counted two for the F16, two for the distro boards, one for the fan, and one for the Pi (via a regulator).  I assume that the Pi is being done separately.
As far as neat freak, I try as well.  Does not always happen.  When I rebuilt my 12 x 50 pixel tree into 24 x 100 last November, I was in a serious time crunch by the time I got to the power.  I did mine different than you did.  I have the two SanDevices E682 controllers in a 12 x 12 x 6 PVC electrical box behind the bottom of the star (the green arrow on the photo).  There is also a six port Ethernet switch in there.  I only expected to need three ports (one in and an output to each E682s), but ended up using a fourth when I installed the P10 panel in a unplanned location and the pixel tree switch was handy to supply the E1.31 LAN to it.  The three 12 volt and one 5 volt power supplies are in another 12 x 12 x 6 PVC electrical box mounted at about the 11 foot level (the red arrow) on the back side of the tree.  Each power supply feeds one half of a E682, so 800 pixels.  I have the strings set to 50% which makes a max of 24 amps on each power supply and 12 AWG wire.  That's one of the things that will be re-done for 2019.  It's a little hard to see, but just above the cross piece of Unistrut that the power supply box is mounted to, you can sort of see a piece of 3/4 inch liquid-tight flexible conduit that has the eight pieces of 12 AWG THHN, and a Cat-5 cable for a temperature sensor off my East attic environmental monitor.  I designed it so I can unhook the power wires and the Cat-5 in the controller box and unbolt the power supply box while the tree is vertical in about five minutes.  Removes quite a bit of weight for standing up and dropping the tree.  I'm going to do a little clean up on that this weekend before putting it all away.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 23, 2019, 04:47:43 PM
Nicely done. Actually the fan is powered by the controller and the Pi is powered by the buck converter between the fused block and negative block.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: algerdes on January 23, 2019, 04:50:31 PM
Just out of curiosity, it appears from the photos that you are using the male tales as controller output, and the female tales as power output.  Is this correct?
No. I am using female pigtails on all of them. But the controller pigtails are from holidaycoro and the power pigtails are from Ray Wu. Thats why it appears that way.


OK.  It just looked like the locking nut (usually on the male side) on the far right.   :o


Nice and neat design. 
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 23, 2019, 04:54:18 PM
Thanks.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: k6ccc on January 23, 2019, 08:22:46 PM
My name is Steve and I'm just getting started. but I think this will become a huge hobby!!


Danger!  Danger!!  Danger!!!  Run away as fast as you can!

Oh wait, it's too late - you now have a severe case of Christmas Light Addiction Problem (also known as CLAP).
Welcome to the club :)

Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 24, 2019, 05:23:44 AM
 ;D touchť.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 27, 2019, 07:08:26 PM
I haven't even used my build for a season yet and I already changed it up.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 28, 2019, 04:09:09 PM
And I'm done!! Finally!
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: algerdes on January 28, 2019, 04:31:16 PM
What type of power connection are you using? (See attachment.)
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 28, 2019, 04:49:40 PM
What type of power connection are you using? (See attachment.)

They are female quick disconnect lugs with male quick disconnect posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Mount-0-187-Quick-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B00NV8UNR8/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QA7YNHKXN9A5WKR4KCNK
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Todd on January 28, 2019, 05:44:57 PM
What type of power connection are you using? (See attachment.)

They are female quick disconnect lugs with male quick disconnect posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Mount-0-187-Quick-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B00NV8UNR8/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QA7YNHKXN9A5WKR4KCNK (https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Mount-0-187-Quick-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B00NV8UNR8/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QA7YNHKXN9A5WKR4KCNK)
Looks like they should give the ability to swap out a power supply fairly quickly. Also keeps it neat and tidy. Very nice job.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 28, 2019, 05:56:25 PM
Thanks Todd.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: algerdes on January 29, 2019, 09:19:04 AM
Very nice idea.  I've been looking for something that would make swapping supplies a bit easier.
Thanks for sharing.


The $1.28 per is a bit of a shock for a small piece of metal, but it is what it is.

Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 29, 2019, 01:17:04 PM
Wow I didnít even look at the price when I purchased them. Oh well too late now haha.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on January 29, 2019, 01:24:47 PM
Ok I didnít think I would have spent that much on them. These are the ones I got, not the other ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Mount-0-250-Quick-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B00NV8PAVW/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3JRKBF34TYKNJP1HQ7CH
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: usmick78 on February 11, 2019, 04:50:22 AM
So I am too late in asking this question but I may as well try to find out. How did everyone go about drilling the 3.5" hole for the vents in the BUD enclosure? I went to HD and asked if a holesaw would work for 1/4" thick plastic and the guy told me yes. It may be that I wasn't able to put a block of wood behind it when I was drilling but the holesaw gouged my enclosure pretty bad on the first hole. Thats why I have the foam gasket on the inside. The second hole I used my dremel but it was still pretty jagged. Any help would be greatly appreciated for the next enclosure. Thanks.


Take and run the hole saw in reverse to start, then go forward.  If you use some sort of a backer, so much the better.
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: k6ccc on February 11, 2019, 06:12:01 AM
A drill press helps a lot too.



Sent from a $&@#% iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: New F16V3 Enclosure Build
Post by: Xmas! on February 11, 2019, 08:22:43 AM
Thanks guys. I got it done.